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Trail Etiquette 101

(Written by Special Reports Team |  Updated on 03/11/2024)
 

Even before pinpointing a dog-friendly park to hike at with your dog, you should be evaluating your pup’s pre-hike readiness, everything from their physical fitness to their obedience.

Some quick tips: As tempting as it may be, push pause on bringing a puppy on a long hike, as their immune systems and bones aren’t fully developed. Also, know that more intense backpacking trips should be reserved for the dogs who’ve earned their hiking stripes.

And while some dog breeds are indeed deemed better hiking dogs than others, we stand by the belief that the best hiking dog is a prepared one. So, follow these steps before you and your pup opt outside.

 

1. Visit The Vet

As the saying goes, safety first!

Before gearing up to hike with your dog, take Fido to the vet for a health and safety check and to determine just how much your dog can handle. Consider asking your vet the following questions:

  • Is my dog physically ready for a hike?

  • Is my dog’s immune system strong and ready for the great outdoors?

Be prepared for your vet to maybe acknowledge that some breeds skew more physically fit and, in turn, are more natural hiking dogs than others. For instance, short-muzzled dogs struggle more in the heat than others and aren’t known for their endurance. And breeds that are traditionally bred for hunting might get overly excited on the trail.

By the end of your vet visit, you should have a clear picture of whether it’s safe to hike with your dog, as well as a baseline of how much your pup can exert themselves in a day. Even though not all dogs are naturally born to hit the trail, with a little training you can get yours into hiking-dog shape in no time.

 

2. Know Trail Regulations

Know that every park has its own pet policy and that some may not even be pet-friendly. Always double-check whether your desired destination allows dogs and assume a leash is mandatory.

No matter where you roam with your furbaby — whether it’s a dog-friendly national park, pet-friendly national forest, or even local trail — keep the National Park Service’s B.A.R.K. principles top of mind:

  • Bag your pet’s waste

  • Always leash your pet (on a leash no more than 6-feet long)

  • Respect wildlife

  • Know where you can go

 

3. Practice Trail Etiquette

There are mandatory rules and regulations regarding pets in parks and then there is trail etiquette — or, as some prefer to call it, etiquette. It’s all about ensuring your dog is well-mannered during your hike and, importantly, not being a hindrance to passersby, natural habitats, or wildlife.

So, it’s important to level up your obedience training before hiking with your dog. Consider the following petiquette pointers:

  • Keep your dog leashed to ensure they’re under control at all times.

  • Yield to others on the trail, and recognize not every hiker will want to engage with your dog.

  • Never let your dog stray away to reduce damage to habitats and wildlife.

  • Obey dog-friendly park restrictions, and respect areas that are off-limits.

  • Hike with only one dog at a time, and manage your dog and only your dog.

  • Teach your dog a quiet cue to ensure they aren’t being verbally disruptive.

Of course, not every hike with a dog is perfect and we must prepare for unexpected incidents. For example, if your dog wrangles out of their leash, they should be able to respond to verbal cues to return to you.

Remember, not all pets are allowed in parks and your dog is a steward of the canine community when they visit one.

 

4. Abide by Leave No Trace — Especially with Dog Waste

Everything that goes into the park must come back out. That’s the premise of Leave No Trace. And yes, it includes when nature calls — for you and your dog.

Trash like wrappers or leftover food is unpleasant for other hikers, but dog waste can be detrimental to wildlife who might view it as a mark of territory if your pup is left behind. After all, dogs are not wild animals so their poop doesn’t belong in the wild.

For this reason, never enter a dog-friendly park without poop bags and, for safe measure, bring additional bags to double bag their waste. Also never leave dog poop bags on the trail to pick up later. It’s unsightly for others and, in the event you forget to grab it, not all materials disintegrate.

If you’re backpacking with your dog or camping overnight, humans and dogs should both abide by the waste rule to bury it in a 6- to 8- inch hole that’s 200 feet from a trail or water source.

 

5. Begin a Trail-Training Regimen

Think of training to hike with dogs like training for a marathon, not a sprint. To get your dog physically and mentally fit for the trail, begin going on hikes in small increments and work your way up to longer stints, depending on how much energy your dog has left over after each practice hike.

And if you’re wondering, “Can my dogs go on long hikes?” …well, it sounds like you’re wanting to push yourself so you might want to push your pup, too. Which means you need to practice patience to get them fully prepared for the trail.

Endurance training not only helps your dog’s stamina, but it also can toughen up your dog’s paws, which can take a lot of wear and tear from new terrains. You might want to consider applying a dog paw balm as a post-hike remedy.

Packing For The Trail: Dog Hiking Gear To Pack

The longer you hike with your dog, the more you’ll need to pack. It’s all about planning for your dogs’ needs on the trail and considering the most efficient way to carry their supplies, beginning with the pinnacle of dog hiking gear — the dog hiking backpack.

 

Dog Hiking Backpack

Also known as the dog pack for short, a dog hiking backpack is just what it sounds like: A backpack strapped to your dog that carries their dog hiking essentials.

They’re especially important for backpacking with dogs but also long hikes with your dog to offset all of the weight you’re carrying.

Most importantly, you want to ensure your dog hiking backpack fits your dog correctly, is weighted appropriately, and loaded evenly. How to know if a dog hiking backpack will fit your pup? A general rule of thumb is to measure the circumference of the widest part of your dog’s chest and find the corresponding size. Tip: Also consider a pack with a top handle to keep your dog close.

 
How To Acclimate a Dog to a Dog Hiking Backpack

Once you’ve purchased your dog hiking backpack, you need to get your dog comfortable wearing it. Begin by strapping the empty pack on them and having them wear it around the house, keeping the straps snug but not so much that it will rub or chafe them. After Fido’s fine with their new accessory, it’s time to add weight to it gradually — when you pack the dog pack, be sure it’s not lop-sided and always evenly weighted — generally until you max out at about 25 percent of your dog’s bodyweight. Consult your vet for the max weight for your pet.

 

Food + Water Essentials

The more energy we burn, the more fuel we need — and hiking with dogs can be a strenuous activity, for humans and dogs alike. For this reason, never leave your dog out of water breaks on a hike, and know that when you’re ready for a snack so probably is your pooch. After all, they’re burning many more calories than sitting on a dog bed at home.

Don’t go hiking with dogs without the following food and water essentials, especially if you’re backpacking with dogs:

  • Water bowl, preferably portable or collapsible

  • Dog food, ideally dry and high in protein

  • Water

In addition to nourishing your dog whenever you need nourishment, also be cognizant that your pup might be hungrier or thirstier than you. Generally, larger dogs drink around 0.5 to 1 ounce of water per pound per day, while small dogs drink closer to 1.5 ounces per pound per day.

Tip: Touch your dog’s nose and, if it’s dry, know it’s water break time. Also, consult your vet about how much food your pooch typically consumes per day.

 

Dog Hiking Apparel + Accessories

Now, we’re not suggesting your hiking dog get gussied up for Instagram for the trails. But we do encourage pet owners to consider some dog hiking apparel that can help stabilize their temperature and even protect their paws, like the following:

  • Dog hiking boots can protect your dog’s paws from rough, hot, or cold terrain. Just be sure to get your dog acclimated to them at home before relying on them for extended periods, like a hike.

  • Dog coats are especially practical for short- or no-haired dogs hiking in colder climates.

  • Reflective dog jackets, collars, or leashes are essential in case you’re out after dark.

  • Cooling dog collars, usually approached with a soak-and-wrap method, are a reprieve from the heat especially for long- or thick-haired dogs.

  • Collars or dog harness should be considered mandatory for your dog on the trail and should include an ID tag.

  • ID tags are important in dog-friendly parks and beyond, just in case your precious pup gets lost.

  • Leashes too are a must when hiking with dogs.

 

Dog Backpacking + Dog Hiking Gear

Whether you’re backpacking with Fido or are on a daylong hike with your dog, you might want to consider packing up these other items for a visit to a dog-friendly park.

  • Dog towels to wipe dirty paws before getting in a tent or car, or to dry off a wet dog.

  • Dog nail clippers or files to avoid nails damaging tents and to level off any hangnails.

  • Dog brush or combs to clean your dog’s coat of any plant materials or burrs.

  • Safety lights in case you’re out after dark.

  • Pet-safe insect repellents in case bugs are perturbing your pooch.

  • Toys to entertain your pup during downtime.

  • Instant ice packs to cool your dog.

  • Sleeping pads or tents that are large enough for one- to two- people, perchance you and your pup are camping.

  • Post-hike remedies to calm or relieve your pup

  • Dog first-aid kits are a must

 

Dog First-Aid Kit

As scary as it may be, there are no vets around in the great outdoors to care for our pet in the event of a hiking accident or medical emergency. For this reason, a dog first-aid kit is a must-pack when it comes to hiking with dogs.

But what should be in a dog first-aid kit? Consider including the following items when you’re hiking with dogs:

  • Phone numbers (veterinarian, emergency clinics, animal poison control center)

  • Prescribed medications

  • Guidebook to dog first aid

  • Non-stick bandages (or old wool socks)

  • Gauze

  • Adhesive tape

  • Vet wrap

  • Styptic pencil and/or swab

  • Multitool, with tweezers, pliers, and scissors

  • Medical stapler

  • Old credit card (to remove bee stingers)

  • Dog brush or comb

  • Pain medicine/anti-inflammatory agents

  • Antihistamines

  • Antibiotic ointment

  • Saline eye solution

  • Antiseptic spray or cream

  • Paw salve

  • Canine sunscreen

  • Hydrogen peroxide

  • Benadryl

 

More Pet First-Aid Kit Considerations

When hiking with dogs, the hazards don’t always stop at the trailhead. Accidents can also happen during road trips to a dog-friendly park and occasionally at home. As a nod to National Pet First Aid Awareness Month in April, we created printable checklists for you to curate a dog first-aid kit for every which scenario.

Precautions For The Trail: Hazards of Hiking With Dogs

Hiking with your dog isn’t the same as those regular jaunts you take to exercise your dog. So many scenarios can pan out in the wild. What if your dog gets bitten by a snake? What if you find a tick on them, or they eat something poisonous? While as pet owners we never want to fathom any of these things happening, we do need to be aware of them.

In addition to having your vet’s number on hand for a professional’s opinion, also be aware of the following trail hazards and possible canine conditions:

  • Overexertion: Watch if your dog is limping or breathing heavily. They may be overdoing it, perhaps because they’re excited.

  • Wildlife: Keep your dog leashed to ensure they’re away from predators and pests, including ticks.

  • Wild and poisonous plants: Play it safe and don’t let your pup canoodle with any plants in the wild.

  • Heatstroke: Watch if your pet is gravitating toward shady spots or panting heavily. They may be overheating.

  • Waterborne pathogens: Discourage your dog from drinking any water in a dog-friendly park other than what you bring in to avoid any parasites or bacteria like Leptospirosis.

  • Weather extremes: Cold snaps and heat waves happen, as well as downpours. Be prepared to safeguard your pet through all of them.

  • Falling: Dog-friendly hiking trails aren’t all smooth sailing. Some might have unstable cliffs or rough terrain. Be prepared to treat your pet accordingly.

  • Paw injuries: Your dog’s paws can take a beating outdoors, including from hot or cold surfaces. Be cognizant of where they’re stepping and consider dog booties.

A final note: Even if you’re just going to scope out a trailhead, never leave your dog in a locked, hot car.

Of course, every trail system and park has its hazards. Researching those specific to your trip beforehand can go a long way in offsetting these hazards of the trail.

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PNW Dog Friendly Hiking Trails 

     Traveler Guide to Dog-Friendly Hikes in the PNW | TNAA

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Puppy Development Deadlines, by Ian Dunbar

Sep. Anx.

Separation Anxiety in Dogs: Causes, Prevention, and How to Solve It

By Stephanie Gibeault, MSc, CPDT

Sponsored by Pet ReleafUpdated: Feb 05, 2024 | 6 Minutes

 

Separation Anxiety in Dogs: Signs, Causes, and Prevention

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When you’re raising a puppy, there can be a parade of behavioral issues that march through their—and your—life. Separation anxiety (SA) can be one of them. Understanding and recognizing separation anxiety in dogs will prepare you to do all you can to prevent the condition as well as to address it at the first signs.

Although older dogs can develop SA, it often affects young dogs. So learn to prevent dog separation anxiety before it starts.

What Is Dog Separation Anxiety?

Whether in a puppy or an adult dog, separation anxiety is when your dog exhibits extreme stress from the time you leave them alone until you return. The symptoms can vary, but they will act as if they are terrified to be in the house on their own. According to Patricia McConnell, Ph.D. a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist, although we can’t know for sure what’s in a dog’s mind, we can think of SA as the equivalent of a panic attack.

Here’s the good news: As the responsible owner of a new puppy, hopefully you’re already laying the foundation for a well-adjusted, well-behaved dog. Puppy training, socialization, crate training, and teaching your puppy how to enjoy being alone all contribute. Therefore, many of the recommendations here are things you may already be doing or have already done. That said, SA does present some unique challenges.

The Difference Between Separation Anxiety and Normal Canine Behavior

Separation anxiety is a serious condition, and it goes beyond the occasional mournful whimper when you leave the house or the shredded sock waiting for you upon your return. It’s also not the same as boredom, and unlike a little mischief when your dog is left alone, separation anxiety is the result of legitimate stress.

Before labeling destroyed cushions or potty accidents as SA, be sure it’s not a case of inadequate training. Does your dog truly understand good manners, even when you’re not watching them? Are they 100% potty trained? One of the best ways to see what’s really going on in your absence is to get audio or video footage of your dog’s behavior while you’re away.

What Are the Signs of Separation Anxiety in Dogs?

Dogs can exhibit stress in many ways, so there is no one defining sign of SA. Instead, there are a variety of symptoms. One or two of them, especially if they only happen occasionally, may not be a sign of puppy separation anxiety. But if your puppy shows multiple symptoms on a regular basis, they may be suffering from SA. Here are some behaviors your dog may exhibit:

  • Anxious behaviors like pacing, whining, or trembling while you’re gone or as you prepare to leave.

  • Excessive barking or howling.

  • Destructive acts, such as chewing or digging, particularly around doors or windows.

  • Accidents in the house – urinating or defecating.

  • Excessive salivation, drooling, or panting.

  • Desperate and prolonged attempts to escape confinement, potentially ending in serious injury.

According to research published in the Journal of Applied Animal Welfare Science, several of the above symptoms are also some of the most common reasons owners get rid of their dogs. This is especially unfortunate because it’s an issue that can be treated by implementing a few simple but important tactics.

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What Causes Separation Anxiety in Puppies and Dogs?

It’s unclear why some puppies are more prone to separation anxiety than others. McConnell theorizes there may be several reasons, including never previously being left alone and traumatic separation (such as would be seen in some abandoned shelter dogs). Even a single traumatic event in the owner’s absence, like the house being robbed, can lead to SA. Finally, she suggests that personality can play a role, with clingy dogs perhaps being more at risk than independent ones.

Other triggers to watch for involve life changes like a sudden switch in schedule, a move to a new house, or the sudden absence of a family member, whether it’s a divorce, a death in the family, or a child leaving for college. Some research has even pointed to a lack of daily exercise as a possible cause. Because there are so many potential triggers for SA, it’s essential to work on prevention and start treatment at the first sign.

What Can I Do About My Dog’s Separation Anxiety?

It’s exhausting to come home to destruction and upsetting to see your puppy in such distress. It’s even more devastating for your dog. Thankfully, there are several steps you can take to deal with SA. Some of the treatments are the same as the preventative measures and may already be part of your puppy’s routine. But consider all of them as you tackle SA. Look at the following methods of treatment:

Crate Training

It bears repeating that a crate is your dog’s friend and your ally. It’s an important training tool and the solution for many puppy challenges. It isn’t cruel or unhealthy if used appropriately. Instead, it can provide your pup with a safe, quiet place to relax. The trick is to teach them to associate their crate with wonderful things like chew toys and food-releasing puzzle toys so they are happy to spend time inside. Some dogs feel safer and more comfortable in their crate when left alone. However, other dogs can panic. Watch your puppy’s behavior to see if they settle right down or if the anxiety symptoms ramp up. Remember, the goal is not to crate your dog all day, every day as a solution to their SA. It’s to keep them and your house safe while you teach them to enjoy being alone.

Desensitization and Counter-Conditioning

An important part of raising a mentally and physically healthy new puppy is teaching them to be comfortable in the world and to form positive associations with new experiences. That’s equally true for time away from you. Teach your puppy that separation has its rewards. Start by leaving them for very short periods of time and gradually lengthen the amount of time you’re gone. If your puppy is already conditioned to go into stress mode when they know you’re leaving them, try countering that reaction by using a high-value treat they really love and that you only bring out for important lessons and rewards. If they get a special treat right before you leave, they might even begin to look forward to your departure.

You can also make your departure routine less distressing by desensitizing your puppy to the signs you’re about to go out. For example, pick up your keys or put on your coat, then go make dinner rather than heading to the car. Even better, toss your puppy a high-value treat right before you touch your keys or coat. In time, they will look forward to the signs you’re about to leave rather than panicking.

 

Exercise

Exercise can’t cure SA, but it certainly can help treat and prevent it. First, make sure your puppy gets plenty of age-appropriate physical exercise. This is especially true for large, high-energy dogs with a lot of it to burn off. A tired, contented dog who’s had a brisk walk and playtime with you is more likely to settle down when you leave. Second, don’t neglect your puppy’s mental muscles. Training sessions, puzzle toys, and cognitive games are all good choices. A brain workout can be just as exhausting as a physical one: and lots of fun, too.

Clinginess: Playing it Cool

Don’t encourage overly clingy behavior. Instead, develop independence by teaching your puppy to be on their own in another room, even when you’re at home. Teaching a solid stay is another way to battle excessive attachment. Start with short lengths of time, and once your puppy can stay for several minutes, you can begin to leave the room. Eventually, you should be able to leave his sight while they stay for five or ten minutes.

It’s also important to play it cool when you leave or return to your home. You can greet your dog with love, but don’t get over-the-top emotional. Keep things calm and without fanfare. If you get worked up, your dog will see your comings and goings as a major event to worry over. Plus, if you return home to damage or accidents, don’t punish your dog. You will only add to their anxiety and worsen the problem.

Medication and Natural Supplements

Sometimes, training and counter-conditioning are not enough. Some vets recommend medication such as amitriptyline, which is used to treat depression, or alprazolam, which is prescribed for anxiety and panic disorders. These require a prescription and are safe for most pets, though you’ll need to consult with your vet; be extra diligent about the use of medication with a young dog.

Another option is supplements and homeopathic treatment. Natural products like CBD or valerian might bring your dog relief from SA, or at least smooth the way during your training program. Just be sure to consult with your vet before giving your dog any over-the-counter products, particularly if they are already on prescription medications. Other options for canine anxiety relief include dog-appeasing pheromone collars or diffusers and compression shirts.

Can Separation Anxiety Always Be Prevented?

Separation anxiety in puppies and dogs isn’t always preventable, despite your best efforts. And once SA has taken hold, it can be a complicated process to treat. Consider working with a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist or a veterinary behaviorist to help smooth the process.

However, as serious as this condition may be, McConnell assures it has a high rate of treatment success. With patience and a positive attitude, you may be able to reduce your dog’s suffering and put separation anxiety stress behind you.

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Crate Training

Crate Training Benefits: Why A Crate Is Great for You and Your Dog

By Kaitlyn Arford

Updated: Mar 14, 2024 | 4 Minutes

Crate Training Benefits: Why A Crate Is Great For You And Your Dog

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Crate training is a vitally important part of bringing a dog of any age into your life and home. It can benefit puppies, adult dogs, and seniors in one way or another. Crate training can give dogs a sense of security and give owners more peace of mind.

Breeders and Vets Recommend Crate Training Your Dog

Enclosed spaces create a shelter for your dog to rest and relax. Actually, dogs instinctively seek small spaces to create protective shelters for themselves. Crates are useful training tools for puppies, safe havens for senior dogs, and lifesavers for emergencies.

Most veterinarians, trainers, and breeders recommend crate training dogs from a young age. Crate training is an essential part of housebreaking puppies, as dogs don’t like to soil their sleeping quarters. They learn to hold their bladders while they’re in their crate, so you won’t have to clean up messes.

“We recommend crate training every dog because you never know what’s going to happen in the future,” says Christine Kroh, intake coordinator at Beagles to the Rescue.

©Field Dog Imagery

In emergencies, crate training can be the difference between safety and uncertainty. You must be able to evacuate your dog efficiently, so having a cooperative dog get into a crate quickly saves crucial time. Having dogs secured during evacuations reduces the chance of them getting lost or injured. It also allows your dog to stay with you during an emergency because dogs typically have to be crate trained in order to remain in shelters with their owners.

Crate Training Makes Life Easier

For dogs that aren’t crate trained, crates may be the scariest part of a harried situation. Crate training can help prevent compounding a dog’s stress during emergencies. In worst-case scenarios, dogs may be required to be on crate rest when recovering from surgery. Dogs are less likely to have complications following surgery when they can peacefully relax (rather than accidentally aggravate injuries because they can’t settle down in a crate).

Crate training comes in handy during everyday life. Some dogs might need a break from a bustling household or a familiar place to rest. Crates help dogs learn to self-soothe or deal with their anxiety during situations where they become distressed, like during fireworks, thunderstorms, or construction. Dogs can retreat to their crates when situations are too chaotic or scary. Crate training also helps dogs confront new situations successfully, like the addition of a new baby or having company over.

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“If the dog’s freaking out, they think, ‘I can go hide in my crate and it’s safe here and nobody’s gonna bother me.’ That helps them out for their lifetime,” says Kroh.

Crates make it easier to safely transport your dog by car or by air during long-distance travel or vacations. Crate training makes long car rides more pleasant for both humans and canines. Crates allow dogs to lie down and sleep without distracting the driver.

It’s especially important for a dog to know how to behave in a crate during a flight. Many dogs need to be contained if they travel on airplanes. The American Veterinary Medical Association notes that sedation isn’t necessarily recommended for pets traveling on planes, but you should discuss the matter with your vet well in advance of flying with your dog.

Crate Training Benefits Dogs of All Ages

Crates keep curious puppies safely sequestered when you’re not able to supervise them. Dogs instinctively try to keep their sleeping areas clean. As such, the crate helps puppies learn to hold and strengthen their bladder and bowel muscles, making housebreaking less of a chore for you and your dog.

“When they’re puppies, the crate really is the major tool that will help you house train,” says trainer Heike Purdon. “It teaches them that freedom is a privilege and you get more space as your house training skills become better.”

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Crate training early in a dog’s life prevents introducing unnecessary stress later. When older dogs are dealing with illnesses like incontinence, arthritis, or canine cognitive dysfunction, they don’t need the additional stress of learning new rules.

Crate training helps senior dogs deal with health issues. Crates can provide a restful place for senior pets to rest their joints or take frequent naps, prevent nighttime wandering, and make transporting them to vet appointments easier. Crates also create safe havens for older dogs, who may be especially in need of this when surrounded by rambunctious children or other dogs.

Crate Training Benefits All Types of Dogs

For rescued dogs, a crate provides a safe space to adjust to their new surroundings as well as the luxury of not having to fight for their own space. Crates provide comfort to rescued dogs, since they may be fearful around certain people or environments. This is particularly true for dogs with a traumatic past of neglect or abuse. Crates allow rescued dogs to know they have their own territory and no one will hurt them in it.

Kroh notes that the biggest behavior issues they see with rescued dogs “are barking and being destructive.” Many rescued dogs haven’t yet sufficiently developed their socialization skills, which can result in problems with destruction or barking. Crate training will improve their confidence and curtail problematic behavior.

 

Crate training benefits hunting dogs, keeping them comfortable during hunts and on the road. Of course, this also benefits hunters, since they’ll appreciate having wet and muddy dogs contained. Kroh advises crate training hunting dogs the same way you would a puppy.

Since dogs feel responsible for their own territory, insecure dogs need less space to protect. A crate (rather than the entire house) means less territory to patrol, making it easier for your dog to relax.

Tips for Successful Crate Training

The first and most important step in crate training is making it a positive experience. Try feeding them meals or treats in their crate so crate time feels like a reward. Never leave dogs in their crate all day. Limit your dog’s crate time based on how long they spend there daily, their age, and their level of house training.

Understanding the need for crate training is just the first step, but the training itself is another matter entirely. Make sure to do extensive research on how to crate train your dog, consider consulting a dog trainer if you have questions, and be sure to stick to your plan to ensure the greatest chance of success.

Impulse Control

How to Teach Your Dog Emotional Self-Control

By Stephanie Gibeault, MSc, CPDT

Updated: Apr 21, 2021 | 4 Minutes

Impulse Control for Dogs: Dog Self Control Training

Does your dog jump all over you when you’re trying to put down the food bowl? Do they paw and whine for attention? What about rushing out the front door or pulling on the leash? These are all common dog behaviors because dogs do what works for them in the moment. They’re not particularly patient. In other words, they don’t naturally have emotional self-control.

Learn the Benefits of Emotional Self-Control

Emotional self-control, also known as impulse control, is something most dogs need to be taught. Impatient and demanding puppies don’t magically mature into patient and restrained adults. In fact, if you don’t teach your puppy some level of impulse control, by the time they reach adolescence, it’s likely they will have already developed some bad habits. Many annoying dog behaviors are related to poor self-control.

For example, a dog pulls on the leash because they simply can’t wait for you to keep up. Or they burst out the door of their crate because they’re eager to be free. They don’t know how to wait to get what they want. Their frustration can lead to all kinds of rude behavior, especially in exciting situations.

If you teach your dog self-control, they will be more pleasant to live with. A patient dog is better behaved and less demanding. But it’s also great for your dog. Rather than feeling frustrated by their need for instant gratification, they will feel calmer and more in control of their environment. They will learn how to get what they want instead of struggling against you.

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Understand How to Teach Emotional Self-Control

There are a few key elements to teaching your dog self-control. First, show them that rewards come from you rather than just the environment. These rewards can be treats and toys or life rewards like a walk or access to the yard. Show your dog that by giving you what you want, they will get what they want.

Second, show your dog how to earn those rewards. The behavior you choose is up to you. You might want your dog to sit or you might want them to lie down. But something as simple as standing with four paws on the floor can work too. Just be consistent and set the bar where your dog can succeed.

Play Games to Teach Emotional Self-Control

Although teaching emotional self-control sounds like a huge undertaking, it’s best trained through games. Games with rules geared to impulse control will teach your dog that patience brings rewards. Try the following:

Wait for Your Food Dish

Mealtime is a golden opportunity to do a little training. Teach your dog that their polite behavior makes dinner happen. Here are the rules for this game:

1. Hold your dog’s food bowl high enough that your dog can’t reach it. Wait for your dog to settle down and sit or ask for a sit.

2. Once your dog is sitting, begin to lower the food bowl. As soon as your dog’s bum pops off the floor, raise the bowl again and either wait for the sit or request one again.

3. Continue to lower and raise the bowl with your dog’s bum until your dog figures out that their butt is like a light switch – on the ground brings the food closer and in the air makes the food go away.

4. Once your dog remains sitting until the bowl is on the ground, add your release cue and let your dog eat.

©Africa Studio - stock.adobe.com

Leave It

Leave it is excellent for safety as it can prevent your dog from eating dangerous items. But it also teaches your dog that ignoring a reward is the very behavior that will earn it. The following steps will teach your dog to leave it:

1. Place a treat in your fist and hold your fist in front of your dog.

2. Allow your dog to paw and sniff at your fist as much as they want. As soon as they back away, reward them with a treat from your other hand.

3. When your dog can ignore your fist, start opening your hand so they can see the treat. If they approach, close your fist again. If they back away, re-open your hand. Once your dog ignores your open hand, reward them with a treat from the other hand.

4. Now try placing the treat on the floor and covering it with your hand or foot. Again, reward your dog when they back away.

Wait at the Door

You can teach your dog to wait at the crate door, the car door, or a door in your home, but in the beginning, this is best trained in the house. The following exercise will teach your dog to wait:

1. Wait for your dog to settle down then begin to open the door a crack. As soon as your dog approaches the door, close it again.

2. Repeat this until your dog either backs away or stays still and waits. Now you can slowly increase the amount you open the door, again closing it whenever your dog moves toward it.

3. Once you can open the door completely, add your release cue and allow your dog to go through.

 

Settle on Cue

A game of tug-of-war, a flirt pole for chasing, or even just wrestling with your dog are all great ways to teach them to settle down. Simply add moments of calm into the middle of the fun. Once your dog understands what you’re expecting, you can add a cue like “Settle Down” or “Relax.” Here are the rules for this game:

1. Start with gentle play. You don’t want your dog too excited before you ask them to settle down. In the middle of the game, stop playing and ask your dog to sit or lie down. Once they do, reward them immediately by starting up the game again.

2. When your dog is sitting or lying down consistently, stop asking for the behavior and wait for them to offer it when you stop playing. Again, reward by restarting the game.

3. When your dog is offering the sit or down, you can start to slowly increase the intensity of the game before stopping for a settle break.

Choose the games that suit your dog’s personality and you’ll be amazed how fast they learn to control their impulses. But on top of these games, don’t forget to reward calm behavior whenever you see it. Anytime your dog is showing restraint, be sure to give them a treat or kind word so they know it’s worth their while to control their emotions.

Interactive Food Dispensers

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Soft Mouth

Guarding Behaviors 

What to Do When Your Dog Steals and Guards Items

By Jen Karetnick

Updated: Mar 26, 2024 | 3 Minutes

Resource Guarding in Dogs: How to Deal With This Problematic Behavior

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Dogs find a variety of things valuable, from food to your favorite sweater. But, some might growl, stiffen, lunge, or even bite when you go near or try to retrieve something from them. Called resource guarding in dogs, this behavior is a valuable instinct for feral dogs, because it allows them to survive on limited means in the wild. But it’s not such a great trait for domesticated animals. So, how do you get your dog to stop resource guarding?

What Is Resource Guarding in Dogs?

Experienced dog owners and dog-aware people usually know not to disturb an animal while they’re eating or enjoying a toy. Simply put, you never can anticipate how they will respond. Some dogs don’t mind being petted, interrupted, or accidentally bumped into during mealtime or playtime. However, others mind such disturbances very much.

©kozorog - stock.adobe.com

Occasionally, this behavior extends beyond food and toys. Bestselling author and animal behaviorist Patricia McConnell, Ph.D., notes that resource guarding in dogs is also known as “possessive aggression.” From a dog’s point of view, possession (like in real estate) is nine-tenths of the law. That “real estate” might range from a nesting spot to the companionship of a preferred human.

Discovering the Guarding Behavior

Chances are, you won’t know that your dog has tendencies toward resource guarding until they start exhibiting them. Nicole Costanza, AKC Canine Good Citizen Evaluator and owner of Big Momma’s Dog Training in New Jersey, says that there are body language signs to watch for when a dog is attempting to “guard” an item. Signs of resource guarding in dogs include stiffening their body over an item, a hard stare, “whale eye” (when dogs show the whites of their eyes), lifting their lips, low growling, and baring their teeth.

“Any dog can be prone to resource guarding. It’s not specific to one breed,” Costanza says. “A dog who comes from a breeder could have resource guarding issues, but a dog from the shelter may not. It all depends on the individual dog. The environment a dog grows up in could also dictate whether they have resource guarding issues or not.”

Dogs who behave like this don’t distinguish between people or animals who are going to take something away from them and anyone who’s just passing by. It only matters what they think might be a threat to their items. Dogs are responding to the trigger, not the actual action. This is one reason why resource guarding is problematic and potentially dangerous behavior in a pet.

How to Stop Your Dog From Stealing

“Your best bet is to start training early to prevent resource guarding from developing,” Costanza says. Of course, that’s not always possible, especially if you get an adult dog from a shelter or inherit one from a family member. Costanza says that you can work with dogs who resource guard their food, for example, by slowly desensitizing them to your presence around high-value items.

“Tether your dog to someplace heavy and durable. Stay 6 to 8 feet away from the dog and toss food, such as chicken or hot dogs, in the dog’s general direction,” she advises. “Walk by the dog and throw the food, but don’t stop moving. If the dog gives you warning signals like stiffening the body or a raised lip, you have wandered too close. Once you’ve done this a few times, watch to see if the dog’s body language has changed. If they look up at you in a happy way, anticipating food will be coming their way, then you may move a little closer.”

©kozorog - stock.adobe.com

Costanza emphasizes the importance going through this process slowly and avoiding rushing the dog. The end goal is for you to be able to approach the dog’s bowl without them feeling threatened or feeling stressed. Costanza advises asking professional trainers to help deal with resource guarding in dogs, since they’ll be able to provide tips and tricks to guide you along.

Resource Guarding in Dogs: When to Ask for Help

Some dogs develop resource guarding after reaching adulthood and become unusually protective about their food, toys, and beds. Before training these dogs, it’s a good idea to take them to the vet, says Costanza. A change in behavior or a sign of aggressive behavior may indicate the presence of an underlying medical issue.

In such instances, Costanza recommends consulting either a vet or animal behaviorist to put a treatment plan into play. But that treatment isn’t always directed at the dog. People who live in the household, especially children, must learn management skills, too. It’s really important, Costanza says, to avoid engaging in any type of punishment. “No yelling at your dog, screaming at the dog, or hitting the dog to ‘exert dominance,'” she says. “This may only serve to worsen the behavior.”

Unfortunately, resource guarding, in some cases, leads to biting. If such an event occurs, Costanza strongly suggests calling in a behaviorist immediately so they can determine an outcome in an unbiased manner. This is especially important if babies or toddlers live in the home.

When left unchecked, resource guarding can become problematic, and even dangerous, behavior. Therefore, it’s important to seek professional help sooner rather than later to address the issue.

Clicker Training (Karen Pryor)

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The Food Bowl

Reinforcement

Social Pressure

Stress Displacement Behavior

"Leave It"

Calming Signals

Hand Feeding (learn to earn)

Brain Games (books.....

"Know Your Breed" (what breed best fits your life style)

What's Your Dog Breed's Play Style?

What's Your Dog Breed's Play Style?

 

Tell me what breed your dog is and I'll tell you his play style ... well, almost.

Pixabay (via Pexels)

Dog Play Styles

Yes, you can roughly determine a dog's play style based on its breed, but as with almost everything dog, there's nothing written in stone.

As Patricia McConnell claims, "Genes are written in pencil," meaning that genes are not carbon copies, and breeding is a crapshoot. You can't make assumptions about how a dog will behave based on breed alone, you must consider the nature versus nurture effect. There are many variables. In other words, dogs inherit certain predispositions, but one must also consider the effects of the environment and their experiences in their upbringing. There is no such thing as a dog being like another. Just like snowflakes and fingerprints, each dog is unique.

 

For example, my female Rottweiler loves to retrieve. When I have a ball in my hand, her eyes light up and she would play a game of fetch over and over—to the point of exhaustion. However, many Rottweiler owners complain that their Rotties are never up to a game of fetch. Perhaps this is because I have made this game fun since she was a pup.

Instead, a Golden Retriever that comes to me for board and training could care less about the game. Yes, he might have enjoyed this game and I'm sure there's likely a genetic predisposition, but his owners used to play keep-away with him a lot, so even though there's a will to fetch something you would toss, he would rather run away with the item instead of bringing it back as you might expect from a dog of this breed.

Regardless, there seems to be a certain predisposition for specific dog breeds to play certain types of games. This preference is often linked to what the breed was selectively bred for. In the next paragraphs, we will take a look at certain play styles certain breeds seem to prefer.

 

You can roughly determine a dog's play style based on its breed.

Breed Play Styles

As mentioned, these play styles based on breed are just a generalization, so don't be surprised if your dog doesn't fit the bill. Play styles among dogs can vary based on breed predispositions, personality, and experience. For convenience's sake, dogs breeds were divided into breed groups. If you do not find your dog breed, it likely falls under the general style for the group. Does your dog have a unique play style you want to talk about? Share your dog's play style in the comments section below.

The Herding Group

The herding group is made of dog breeds that were selectively bred to herd livestock. Border collies and Australian shepherds seem to enjoy play that mimics their natural herding instincts to herd, which includes: staring, stalking, and chasing. Some of these dogs can be also quite controlling, something that not all dogs are willing to tolerate.

Some breeds under the herding group may enjoy nipping heels. These breeds thrive on loads of exercise and mental stimulation and are very responsive, which makes them excel in chasing balls and Frisbees. These dogs enjoy interactive toys and do well in the sport of flyball.

Generally, dogs in this group enjoy chasing, barking, and stalking. Monitor for signs of a dog getting tired of having its movement controlled. Consider that some dogs may not like to be stared at.

The Sporting Group

The sporting group is made of dog breeds selectively bred to assist in hunting. Pointers were bred to locate game, and they are naturally drawn to running and chasing games, and they can have rowdy play styles. Cocker Spaniels and other spaniels were bred to flush game out of bushes. They seem to enjoy searching for things and playing "find it" games.

Labrador Retrievers are the goofy dogs who are for all "in your face" greetings which can often irritate the more reserved breeds. Usually fond of water, these dogs enjoy water games and the sport of dock diving. Golden Retrievers like the Labradors were selectively bred to retrieve downed waterfowl, and they may enjoy retrieving a tossed ball.

Generally, dogs in this group enjoy running, chasing, body slamming, and neck biting. Because dogs in this group are highly energetic, it's always good to implement some breaks to allow dogs to rest when playing in groups.

The Terrier Group

The terrier group is made of dogs of different sizes ranging from 2 to 70 pounds. Several small terriers like the Jack Russel Terrier and the Patterdale Terrier were selectively bred to hunt underground quarries. They are feisty, energetic dogs who may enjoy playful digging, and they can be quite enthusiastic about squeaky toys. These feisty little fellows thrive on earthdog trials.

The larger terriers such as the Bull Terrier, American Pit Bull Terrier, and Staffordshire Bull Terrier may enjoy rougher styles of play such as wrestling and body slamming. These breeds may like to take turns being on top and then on the bottom. When it comes to activities, these dogs may enjoy weight pulling.

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Generally, dogs in this group love chasing, body slamming, and neck biting. Monitor for rough play and high arousal levels and avoid off-leash playgroups if your dog appears to bully other dogs or shows signs of not tolerating certain types of play. Some dogs do best with only one well-known playmate with a matching play style.

The Hound Group

The hound groups include scent hounds and sighthounds. Beagles, Basset Hounds, and Dachshunds may enjoy play, but they may go missing in action the moment their powerful noses catch an intriguing whiff. You may, therefore, see them playing a moment, and then they're gone sniffing, only to come back a little bit later. These dogs are pack-oriented and are generally comfortable around groups of off-leash dogs. Entertain them with nosework or hide their kibble around the home. When they play at the dog park, they may enjoy chasing and neck biting, sometimes accompanied by growls.

Sighthounds were selectively bred to use their sight to chase prey. The Greyhound, Whippet, Ibizan Hound, and other sighthounds love to chase and have a high prey drive. Best not to let them mingle with the small fluffy dogs such as those of the toy group. Some sighthounds can be a bit standoffish and may ignore other dogs' invitations to play. They love to play with flirt poles, and they sometimes engage in cat-like play stalking and pouncing on toys. Because many of these breeds have thin skin, best to monitor when they're playing rough.

The Working Group

The working group includes dogs who were selectively bred to assist humans in a variety of tasks. These dogs like to have a job to do and must be kept mentally stimulated. Their play styles may vary from one breed and another.

Boxers and Doberman may enjoy vocalizing with play growls, and they often may use their front paws during play. Pinning down other dogs may be a favorite hobby. Great Danes, mastiffs, and Samoyeds may also join in games of body slamming, chasing and neck biting.

Siberian huskies may like to be vocal like to use their paws and mouths and love to play chase games. Body slamming can be part of their play behavior repertoire. Newfoundlands were bred to haul fishing nets and love to play in the water; whereas Saint Bernards may engage in body slamming.

Dobermans, Rottweilers, and Akitas can be quite confident and serious dogs, some enjoy body-slamming and neck biting, but some may not tolerate certain types of play. Monitor for dogs getting overly confident and intimidating other dogs. Remember; if the other dog being chased seems to be running away, tail between legs, it's time to stop the game. When dogs have fun, they will entice the other dog to resume playing.

 

 

Play styles among dogs can vary based on breed predispositions, personality, and experience.

The Toy Group

The toy group comprises several petite dogs who were selectively bred as companions. Toy breeds include Poms, Maltese, Pugs, and Shih-Tzu who generally crave attention and do not like to be left by themselves. These lap dogs tend to engage in what is known as "cat-like" play, which consists of cute bats with their paws directed to their playmates' faces. They may also be seen spinning and making goofy, exaggerated moves that are quite entertaining and endearing to watch.

Yorkies are feisty, energetic players who enjoy a game of chasing small balls (they might take off with them instead of bringing them back) and with a past as vermin killers, they tend to like squeaky toys and chasing small balls. These dogs do best with appropriately sized playmates with similar play styles.

The Non-Sporting Group

The non-sporting dog group is a very diverse group consisting of dog breeds of all shapes, colors, and sizes. It's difficult to assign a play style to this group with so many different breeds among this group who were selectively bred for different tasks.

Generally, Dalmatians are high-energy players who love to chase and may occasionally body slam too. Despite their sophisticated looks, Standard Poodles are bouncy dogs who are always up for a game of play. Shar-Pei and Chow Chow may enjoy body-slamming and chasing; whereas, French Bulldogs and Bulldogs play in a similar fashion, but make sure they don't over-exercise, especially in warm weather and are given frequent breaks.

The smaller breeds in this group such as the Boston Terriers, Bichons, and Lhasa-Apsos enjoy cat-like play, which involves pawing, but they also may enjoy chasing and neck biting.

What About Mixed Breeds?

Most likely, these dogs will inherit a mix of predispositions from their parents. As mentioned, these are just a few of the play styles seen in certain dog breeds, but they must be taken with a grain of salt as each dog is an individual morphed by his genetic potential and the influences of the environment in which he's raised. What's your dog's favorite play style? Feel free to share it in the comments section.

    

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Off Leash (the importance) 

  • Being off leash allows a dog to move more freely and at their natural pace. A dog can develop more confidence when they feel they have more choice in how they explore. Plus, they tend to burn more energy when off leash than on leash as they run this way, that way, and back to you. (GPS tracker, cow bell)

Impeccable Recall (the importance, enrichment, rewarding

Barn Hunting

       Home | Sports Paws | Camas | Dog Sports (sportspawswa.com)

Local Dog Trainers - Katie High of High Expectation, Doug Duncan PDX,          Greta, Denise Mullenix

Timid

Hand Signals (dogs read visual more than verbal)

(over) Stimulation

K9 Connectables

High Prey Drive

Puppy Training (Ian Dunbar, book)

Exercise - Mental/Physical Balance

Doggy Daycare (benefits/drawbacks (will your dog enjoy, seniors and disabilities

Positive Reinforcement

Boarding/Daycare/Playgroups

Positive Behavior (ignore bad behavior)

Tired Dog, Happy Dog!

Not all sports are for all dogs, know your dogs limits and drives

Agility, Dock Diving, Fetch, Skijoring

Play Styles

Nutrition/Holistic/Organic

CPR

Home Away From Home

Enrichment Daycare (one-on-one attention)

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